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2007-02-06

>yellowtail kingfish/amberjack/hiramasa

There is a bit of confusion regarding this prized fish. Not all yellowtail kingfish is amberjack, and not all are hiramasa variety.

The second savory course at Manresa, hiramasa, was the definition of savory.

A circularly laid out amberjack sashimi dish. Imagine a flattened magnolia blossom with thin satiny translucent sashimi petals, flavored with sherry vinegar reduction, accented with little pieces of geoduck and little neck clams. I imagined tasting concentrated konbu broth, but it's entirely possible these flavors came from the clams alone. Sprinkled on top are white untoasted sesame seeds, slivers of nori, miniscule rings of chives and julienned white radish resembling little daisy petals. Further garnished with baby shiso leaves and flowers. Some may say clams overpower delicate amberjack. They may be right, and David Kinch may be wrong. How deliciously wrong.

>Marinated hiramasa kingfish, pickled carrot and fennel, tomato, lemon dressing - Equinox restaurant, Singapore

>Sashimi of hiramasa kingfish with pepper seared scallops, fennel, pomegranate and citrus dressing - Cafe Sydney, Sydney, Australia

>Tartare of hiramasa kingfish, tuna and scallops with pickled cucumber and avruga - Restaurant Balzac, Sydney, Australia

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