>pione (ピオーネ), large black seedless grapes

The pursuit of the perfect seedless grape continues.

One of the more popular grape varieties in Japan, pione is almost unknown in the U.S.

Dark violet-black and perfectly round, it resembles the concord variety, and does have somewhat similar sweet, floral characteristics.

Despite sounding like Italian subatomic pi meson, (pione is named after "pioniere" in Italian, meaning "pioneer", or French pionnier?) the fruit is rather large, and it is seedless.

A cross between Cannon Hall Muscat and Kyoho (巨峰) grapes,
pione was created by Hideo Igawa (井川秀雄) in 1957.

Ideal candidate for sorbets, pione grape is used in all sorts of jellies, cakes, wine and myriad other pretty confections, and even in ... curry.

Pictured below are fruit curries - white peach curry, pione curry and persimmon curry, and on the right is "pione waffle".

>garganelli, strozzapreti, cappelletti, agnolotti...

I can never get the pasta names straight.

A pasta guide for Italian restaurants (serving good ones) would be handy.

I wouldn't really want our menus to come with shiny little accompanying pictures, either. They would start to look like T.G.I. Friday's.

I suppose I'd have to make one myself. Here's one for *L'impero, which offers a relative bargain four course prix fixe at $64. Different from seven course $110 chef's tasting menu.
(Some cab drivers don't know where the charming Tudor City Place is, between 1st and 2nd. I wasn't paying attention, and he stayed on 42nd and missed it. You have to tell them to go to 41st and turn.)

*since closed, now Convivio

***

L'impero Winter Dinner Menu

PASTA

1)

Garganelli con Funghi e Rosmarino
-homemade pasta quills, braised wild mushrooms scented with rosemary 

garganelli
derived from Latin gargala, tracheal artery
mnemonic - 'quill', 'cannoli'

2)

Agnolotti al Bietole e Ricotta di Bufala
-swiss chard and buffalo ricotta ravioli, tomato puree and garlic breadcrumbs 

agnolotti
derived from Latin anellus, diminutive of anus ring
mnemonic - uh, 'ravioli'

3)
Tagliolini al Nero di Seppia alla Pescatore
-squid ink tagliolini with mixed seafood

tagliolini
like tagliatelle, cut into strips
mnemonic - 'fettuccine, spaghetti'

4)

Strozzapreti con Seppia, Pancetta e Cime di Rape
-hand-rolled maccheroni with cuttlefish, pancetta and broccoli rabe 

strozzapreti
means 'priest choker'
mnemonic - 'pretty ringlet'

5)
Cappelletti di Frutti di Mare
-crab and shrimp filled pasta with black trumpet mushrooms and lobster butter 

cappelletti
from Latin cappa 
mnemonic - 'little hat'

6)

Fusilli al Ragu Napoletano
-handmade pasta twists, Neapolitan pork shoulder ragu and cacciocavallo fonduta

fusilli
from Latin fusus
mnemonic - 'corkscrew'

7) 

Tortelli di Amatrice con Salsa di Cacio e Pepe
amatriciana filled pasta, melted butter, pecorino and black pepper

tortelli
from Latin torta
mnemonic - 'dumpling'

***
L'arte di mangiar bene.
Buon appetito!

>pollen salt, xeres vinegar, sablé, piquillos, Adour Alain Ducasse

I am a linguistic artist playing with food, not a food critic. I rarely read food reviews, and when I do, I inevitably come across painful phrases like "frisson of happiness" and "lyrical, joyous haunt of mango". It is just as well that Adour by Alain Ducasse did not inspire in me such poetry.

Perhaps it was awkward when the inexperienced eager-to-please server failed to pronounce geoduck as gooey-duck. Perhaps it was disappointing when I found the advertised geoduck layer to be too mysteriously thin, perhaps nonexistent, in the pretty hamachi dish.

But this is the exciting brand new New York restaurant which opened just last week. Instead of being jaded, why don't we just appreciate this relatively simple menu at Adour restaurant in the St. Regis space where Lespinasse used to be.

The highlight of the evening?
Playing at the interactive wine bar. Sort of like playing iPhone on the bar table.

APPETIZERS

multicolor vegetable composition
natural jus reduction

delicate cauliflower veloute
dubarry bagel, comte cheese

cucumber marinated hamachi / geoduck
radish, green apple mustard

chilled maine lobster
fennel / grapefruit pairing, pollen salt

tender ricotta gnocchi
lettuce, prosciutto, xeres vinegar

sweetbread "meuniere", egg purse
wild mushrooms, toasted brioche

sauteed duck foie gras
lentils "casserole", red onion belt

foie gras tapioca ravioli
sunchoke broth

caspian golden osetra caviar (1.76 oz)
buckwheat blinis, creme fraiche

MAIN COURSES

olive oil poached chatham cod
bell pepper-white onion "piperade"

slow cooked halibut
glazed vegetables, ivory sauce

striped bass "a la plancha" razor / manila clams
mizuna, potato confit, sauce vin jaune

diver day boat scallops
salsify, spinach, black truffle, shellfish jus

adour lobster thermidor
swiss chard fondant, armagnac

duck breast fillet "au sautoir"
polenta, shallots, radish, lemon, nicoise olives

glazed berkshire pork tournedos
golden apple ring, "boudin noir", juniper infused jus

seared venison medallions
watermelon radish, celery, rutabaga, poivrade sauce

roasted colorado rack of lamb
piquillos, apricot, creamy quinoa

beef tenderloin / braised ribs
garniture "bourgeoise," foie gras-truffle jus

CHEESE

selected cheeses
country bread, preserved autumn fruit

DESSERTS

gala apple souffle, granny smith compote
calvados lady finger, vanilla ice cream

raspberry composition
creme brulee, sable, yuzu sorbet

contemporary exotic vacherin
mango marmalade, coconut, passionfruit emulsion

pear clafoutis
caramel "croustillant", honey ice cream

thin chocolate leaf layers
praline mousse, orange-ginger sorbet

dark chocolate sorbet
coffee granite, caramelized brioche croutons

TASTING MENU

cucumber marinated hamachi / geoduck
radish, green apple mustard

foie gras tapioca ravioli
sunchoke broth

olive oil poached chatham cod
bell pepper-white onion "piperade"

duck breast fillet "au sautoir"
polenta, shallots, radish, lemon, nicoise olives

pear clafoutis

caramel "croustillant", honey ice cream

***
It was a nice evening. I do wish I was offered a more extensive tasting menu like Per Se's.
Perhaps I expected too much and I shouldn't have.

>tonkotsu vs. tonkatsu

tonkotsu - 豚骨, とんこつ, pork bone broth (ramen)
tonkatsu - 豚カツ, a breaded and fried pork cutlet

Here are a few words related to Japanese tonkotsu.

>ton – 豚, pig (original Japanese: buta), the same Chinese character (kanji) is don in Korean, tun in Mandarin.
>kotsu – 骨, bone, same character is gol in Korean, gu in Mandarin.
>KATSU – カツ, English “cut” from “cutlet”. I capitalized it since it’s a new foreign word, sort of like karaOKE からオケ, “empty orchestra” or orchestra with no lyrics.
>gyu – 牛, cow/ox (original Japanese: ushi) and there IS such a thing as “gyukotsu” ramen. Same character is u or oo in Korean, niu in Mandarin.
>cho – bird, chicken (鳥/鶏) (original Japanese: tori). Same character is jo in Korean, niao in Mandarin.
>gara – がら, an original Japanese word meaning leftovers or skeletal remains, so torigara soup　would be poultry bone-based or chicken bone-based.
>niku - 肉, meat. Yook in Korean, rou in Mandarin. I have no idea how you'd say mincemeat.

Examples:
butaniku or tonniku is pork
tonshi is lard (it sounds archaic)
gyuniku is beef
choniku, toriniku is poultry
gyunyu is milk
torimeshi is chicken and rice

And guess what, no one's stopping you from having tonkatsu tonkotsu ramen! (Eeeeww)

>still, sparkling, tap... cucumber infused?

At times, you have probably requested it with lemon.

You are rarely served, especially outside of California, a cool, smooth glass of cucumber-flavored water.

A night out with mom at Aziza in San Francisco was an enchanting escape into Majorelle blue and sumptuous gold.

Unlike El Mansour, another Moroccan restaurant nearby where my sister was delighted to find us instantly transported to a crazy loud belly-dancing Arabian night, Aziza is a subdued, spare, dark space where you barely notice couples cuddling in their own semi-private booths.

Water magic? We were transported to a faraway land where cucumber helps you feel toasty warm, and blue leaves you flushed pink.

>Czech Improved White vs. Vietnamese Potbelly

It reads like a veritable list of representatives to the United Nations.*

Tasty pork goes beyond Hampshire and Yorkshire. It goes beyond Middle White, Large White and Large Black.

Restaurant menus love flaunting the particular breeds of swine they sous-vide, pull, smoke, etc., etc. Their current crush breed is Berkshire (a black pig) or kurobuta ("black pig"). I know black is beautiful, but how about some fair representation.

Last Wednesday, I had late dinner at Kokkari where happy mayor Gavin Newsom (obviously still uninformed of the oil spill) was celebrating his win.

Time to pig out.

>pikti, terrine of Berkshire Pig trotters & head with radishes, cucumber & black olives - Kokkari Estiatorio, San Francisco

>pork chop with fontina, spinach and caramelized shallot stuffed kurobuta pork chop with sauteed sweet potatoes and granny smith apples with haricot verts and brandy cream sauce - the Fig Tree, Charlotte, NC

>satsuma marinated grilled Yorkshire pork loin with purple yam hash; shishito pepper and white truffles - L'Espalier, Boston, MA

*A sample of our proudly international hog reps - may the best pork win!

American Landrace, Bantu, Basque Black Pied, Beijing Black, Belarus Black Pied, Belgian Landrace, Black Slavonian, British Lop, Bulgarian White, Canadian Landrace, Cantonese, Czech Improved White, Danish Duroc, Dutch Landrace, Estonian Bacon, Finnish Landrace, French Landrace, German Landrace, Iberian, Italian Landrace, Japanese Kurobuta, Latvian White, Lithuanian Native, Mexican Wattled, Norwegian Landrace, Philippine Native, Poland China, Russian Large White, Swedish Landrace, Swiss (Schweizerisches) Edelschwein, Tibetan, Ukrainian Spotted Steppe, Vietnamese Potbelly

>acacia honey and sweet 100 tomatoes

There is finally a there there in Oakland. (Rockridge, honorary Berkeley, doesn't count.)

Soft-opening of restaurant Flora (located opposite the beautiful Fox theater) yesterday soft-marked a new era of exciting downtown nightlife.

The building couldn't be any prettier. People will flock to this former floral depot no matter what, I promise. (Alas, no liquor license yet...).

Just look at the menu.
Since I couldn't find their online menu yet, I am printing it here myself.


Flora Restaurant Dinner Menu

SALADS & STARTERS

-soup of the day
-little gem lettuce, red thumb potatoes, hard cooked egg, caramelized shallot, shaved pecorino, black truffle vinaigrette
-mixed chicories, gravenstein apples, shaved fennel, point reyes blue, pomegranate vinaigrette
-red wine braised short ribs, pan gravy, crispy potatoes, cheddar cheese bechamel
-scallop crudo, serrano chile, cucumber, cilantro, fried garlic, yuzu, soy, hawaiian red salt
-house crafted wild mushroom and sheep's milk ricotta ravioli, mushroom broth, fried sage, pomegranate, shaved pepato cheese

ENTREES

-prosciutto wrapped swordfish, green risotto, citrus soup, olive oil
-grilled new york strip, housemade worcestershire, horseradish cream, potato gratin, sauteed spinach
-spiced and grilled giant shrimp, beurre monte, cauliflower pudding, grilled tardivo
-pasta norma - bucatini, eggplant, olives, marinara, ricotta salata, olive oil
- " with crisp pork and beef meatballs
-grilled chicken breast, lemon-caper sauce, mashed potatoes, roasted brussels sprouts
-house ground carmelized onion and chuck burger, french fries, 3 bean salad
- " with mccadam cheddar cheese
-butternut squash pancake, creme fraiche, roasted beets and fennel, green salad
-pan roasted duck breast, fig and port reduction, wilted cabbage, sweet potato puree

SIDES

-mashed potatoes
-sauteed spinach
-cheddar fries
-green salad
-cauliflower pudding

DESSERT

-warm apple galette, butterscotch ice cream, acacia honey
-meyer lemon, huckleberry, pomegranate-orange sorbets, crisp ginger cookie
-peanut brittle ice cream sundae, hot fudge, whipped cream, roasted salted peanuts
-buttermilk panna cotta, muddled huckleberries, shortbread cookie
-affogato-cardamom ice cream, hot blue bottle espresso, almond batons
-chocolate souffle, cacao nib creme anglaise

***
Yes, I wll definitely be there, there, again.

***
All right, all right, here's their lunch menu, too.

SOUPS AND SALADS

-soup of the day
-arugula, roasted red peppers, roasted red onions, pecans, sheep's milk feta, red wine vinaigrette
-avocado green goddess, little gems lettuce, applewood smoked bacon, cucumber, sweet 100 tomatoes, radishes, garlic croutons
-dungeness crab and shrimp louie, tomato, avocado, hard cooked egg, little gems lettuce, classic louie dressing
-red leaf lettuce, baby bok choy, shredded chicken, mango, celery, daikon, spicy red peppers, cashews, bean sprouts, mint, thai basil, cilantro, vietnamese-stye sweet lime-chili vinaigrette

SANDWICHES

-cubano - ham, roasted pork, swiss cheese, house cured pickles, mustard, rustic roll, cabbage slaw
-saltimbocca - sliced chicken breast, prosciutto, mozzarella, lemon sage aioli, greens, poppy roll, potato salad
-grilled persimmon, robiola cheese, acacia honey, arugula, levain bread, 3 bean salad
-tuna melt - house preserved local albacore, red bell pepper, red onion, cilantro, ginger, soy, cheddar cheese, greens, rustic roll, chili-orange noodles
-house ground caramelized onion and chuck burger, fries
- " with mccadam cheddar cheese

ENTREES

-butternut squash risotto, leeks, ricotta salata, dressed greens
-grilled chicken breast, lemon-caper sauce, mashed potatoes, roasted brussels sprouts
-grilled escolar, jicama, grapefruit, sweet potato puree

***
No wine list yet - why don't you try some Boylan's birch beer or Ancient Forest black tea?

>roasted lamb belly and whole pork butt bo ssam

A late night visit to this East Village ssam bar can be a bewildering experience.
Where's the sign? (There is no sign).
The "bar food" is 3 notches above the usual fare. I am perfectly willing to frequent bars if they had food like this. The only complaint was their chintzy portions.

I am printing their menu in its entirety, since it hardly resembles anything elsewhere. I've put asterisks on the items with accompanying pictures (courtesy of my sister). The price for the last item on the menu is worth a mention. Bo Ssam, (wrap, "whole butt" here) which you have to reserve in advance, is $180.00.

Momofuku Ssam Bar Menu, one night in October

Raw Bar

*Glidden Point Oysters (ME) - with kimchi consomme
Cracked Epress Jonah Crab Claws (ME) - 1/2 dozen with yuzu mayo
Cured Hamachi - edamame, horseradish, pea leaves
Diver Sea Scallops (ME) - lemon puree, pickled cherries, seaweed
*Santa Barbara Uni - tapioca, whipped tofu, scallions

Small Dishes

Seasonal Pickles
Steamed Buns - pork belly, hoisin, cucumber, scallions
Bread & Butter - sea salt butter (VT), St. Helen's Farm goat's butter (England)
Four Story Hill Farm Chicken Ballotine (PA) - porcini mushrooms, walnuts
Spicy Squid Salad - celery, sichuan pepper, red chili
*Wagyu Beef Tartare - pinenuts, pear, ginger, scallion

Country Hams

Finchville Farm's Country Ham (Finchville, Kentucky)
Burger's Smokehouse Ozark Country Cured Ham (California, Missouri)
Edward's Wigwam Smoked Ham (Surry, Virginia)
Benton's Smoky Mountain Country Ham (Madisonville, Tennessee)

Local

Red Jacket Cortland & Mutsu Apple Salad - Benton's bacon, lychee, peanuts
Satur Farm Fried Cauliflower - chilies, mint, fish sauce
*Tello's Chawan Mushi - maple syrup, smoked trout roe

Offal

Banh Mi - three terrine sandwich
Warm Veal Head Terrine
*Grilled Veal Sweetreads - pickled roasted chilies, lime
Crispy Pig's Head Torchon (Newman's Farm, MO) - red adzuki beans, spicy mustard

Fish & Shellfish

Old Bay Pan-Fried Skate - roasted fingerlings, preserved lemons, spicy aioli
Steamed Manila Clams - duck sausage, kimchi, poached egg

Etc.

*Roasted Lamb Belly (Four Story Hill Farm, PA) - Mountain Sweet Berry Farm's swiss chard
Pork Spare Ribs (Newman's Farm, MO) - tomatillos, yukon golds, mustard seeds
Pan-Roasted Dry Aged Ribeye - shallot confit

Ssam

Momofuku Ssam -with flour pancake, pork, onions, shiitake, edamame, red kimchi puree
Grilled Lemongrass Pork Sausage - fish sauce, bibb lettuce
Marinated Hanger Steak Ssam - ginger scallion, kimchi, bibb lettuce
Bo Ssam - whole butt, dozen oysters, kimchi, rice bibb lettuce

I *peach* New York.

>black mole hot fudge

Topolobampo restaurant's Mole Menu tasting, course #5

El Nido (The nest)

<-- Before black mole hot fudge, and after -->

Golden donut holes filled with Three Sister's Garden pumpkin crema in cotton candy nest; black mole hot fudge

Paired with 2003 Capcanes Pansal Del Calas, Montsant, Spain

Couldn't have asked for a better bittersweet treat.

>clemole

Topolobampo restaurant's Mole Menu tasting, course #4

Puerco en Clemole Castellano

Maple Creek pork loin in clemole (pasillas, anchos, avocado leaf, hazelnuts, pinenuts, pecans, spices) with red chile bread pudding (infused with "tacha" -candied- pumpkin).

Paired with 2003 Reserva Marques De Vargas, Rioja, Spain

>mole de cacahuate

Topolobampo restaurant's Mole Menu tasting, course # 3

Pescado en Mole Verde de Cacahuate

Pan-seared day-boat catch with classic green peanut mole, polenta-like "tamal frito", braised chard and crispy epazote

Paired with 2003 Ici/La-Bas "Les Reveles" Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, Mendocino County, California

>ayamole

Topolobampo restaurant's Mole Menu tasting, course #2

Ayamole

Silky southern Mexican soup of sweet dumpling squash, ancho chile, sweet spices and roasted garlic; with apple wood smoked shrimp, grilled green onion and watermelon jelly

Paired with 2006 Knappstein Riesling, Clare Valley, Australia

>mole poblano

Topolobampo restaurant's "Mole Menu" tasting, course #1

Tartara "Tallgrass" Sabor a Mole

Hand-cut tartare of Tallgrass grass-fed beef with the essence of mole poblano (mulato, ancho, pasilla, seeds, nuts, herbs, spices) and Bayless Garden microgreens

Paired with 2006 L'Herminette, Tavel Rose, Rhone Valley, France

Mulato: "Wrinkled, flattened, brownish-black, dried chile with a heat level that ranges from mild to medium. When it is fresh, the Mulato Chile Pepper is referred to as a Poblano Chile. The Mulato Chile provides a slight licorice flavor with a hint of cherry and tobacco." (recipetips.com)

Pasilla: The pasilla chile (pronounced pah-SEE-yah; literally "little raisin") or chile negro is the dried form of a variety of chile, named for its dark, wrinkled skin. In its fresh form, it is called the chilaca. It is a mild to medium-hot, rich-flavored chile. ... It turns from dark green to dark brown when fully mature. (wikipedia.org)

>tartaleta with tamarindo

Topolobampo restaurant Seafood Menu tasting, course #5

Tartaleta de Pina y Tamarindo

Upside-down browned butter pineapple tart with homemade puff pastry crust, tamarind caramel sauce and sweet-and-salty toasted pumpkinseed ice cream.

Paired with 1998 Isole e Olena Vin Santo Del Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy

I like snacking on dried tamarind. It tastes a lot like dried persimmon. In fact, if cracking the pods open and peeling the strings away weren't rather annoying and time-consuming, it would make my favorite snack.